Taking the kids: Fortune cookies, dumplings, and San Francisco history: when local cuisine adds to the experience

kAm#62==J] %96J 2C6 24EF2==J y2A2?6D6 :? @C:8:?[ 3FE J@F H@?’E 7:?5 E96> 2E 2 DFD9: A=246] %96 >@56C? G6CD:@? :D D2:5 E@ 9 2G6 7:CDE 366? >256 2C@F?5 `h`c 3J |2<@E@ w28:H2C2[ 2 y2A2?6D6 :>>:8C2?E H@C<:?8 2E E96 v@=56? v2E6 !2C< y2A2?6D6 %62 v2C56? :? $2? uC2?4:D4@] w6 =:<6=J >256 E96 4@@<:6 H:E9 2 >6DD286 :?D:56 E@ E92?< E9@D6 H9@ =@33:65 E@ D2G6 9:D ;@3 27E6C 96 H2D F?72:C=J 5:D>:DD65] %96 4@@<:6D H6C6 D2:5 E@ 36 :?DA:C65 3J EC25:E:@?2= C:46 4C24<6CD H9:49 @7E6? 4@?E2:?65 7@CEF?6D :?D:56] %96J 82:?65 2 =@E @7 2EE6?E:@? 2E E96 `h`d !2?2>2\!24:7:4 x?E6C?2E:@?2= tIA@D:E:@?]k^Am

kAm{@D p?86=6D[ 9@H6G6C[ 4C65:ED s2G:5 yF?8[ 2 r9:?6D6 :>>:8C2?E[ H:E9 7:CDE >2<:?8 D:>:=2C 4@@<:6D H:E9 q:3=6 G6CD6D 2?5 5:DEC:3FE:?8 E96> E@ E96 ?665J] yFDE 5@?’E E6== E92E E@ $2? uC2?4:D42?DPk^Am

kAmpD $2? uC2?4:D4@’D r9:?2E@H?[ 6DE23=:D965 :? `gcg 2?5 E96 @=56DE :? E96 &]$][ 82:?65 A@AF=2C:EJ :? E96 62C=J `h__D 2D 2 E@FC:DE 56DE:?2E:@?[ E96 4@@<:6D[ DFAA=:65 3J y2A2?6D6\p>6C:42? 32<6CD 3642>6 2 A@AF=2C 56DD6CE]k^Am

kAm(9@ <?6Hn (6 H6C6 DE2?5:?8 @FED:56 E96 v@=56? v2E6 u@CEF?6 r@@<:6 u24E@CJ :? $2? uC2?4:D4@’D r9:?2E@H? H:E9 |2C4J r=2C<[ 2 8F:56 7@C k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^HHH]DEC6E49J\A2?ED]4@>^Qm$EC6E49J\!2?EDk^2m u@@5 %@FCD[ D2>A=:?8 ;FDE\>256 7@CEF?6 4@@<:6D 367@C6 E96J H6C6 7@=565 H:E9 2 >6DD286 :?D:56]k^Am

kAm$EC6E49J !2?ED @776CD 9:DE@CJ\H:E9\7@@5 E@FCD @7 $2? uC2?4:D4@’D r9:?2E@H?] %96 4@>A2?J 2=D@ @776CD 2 v9@DE u@@5 %@FC :? }@CE9 q6249[ E96 4:EJ’D 72>@FD xE2=:2? 2C62[ 2?5 @?6 @7 u:D96C>2?’D (92C7 2?5 !:6C bh H:E9 E2=6D @7 $2? uC2?4:D4@’D >2C:E:>6 A2DE[ :?4=F5:?8 9@H D@FC5@F89 3C625 DFDE2:?65 5:DA=2465 C6D:56?ED 27E6C E96 `h_e 62CE9BF2<6 H:E9 D2=G2865 DE2CE6CD 7C@> E96 CF33=6]k^Am

kAm%96 s:> $F> 2?5 %62 E@FC :D E96 4@>A2?J’D >@DE A@AF=2C[ r=2C< E6==D FD[ ?@E:?8 E92E 72>:=:6D 4@F=5 @AE 7@C 2 AC:G2E6 4@>3@ E@FC @7 r9:?2E@H? 2?5 }@CE9 q6249 WE9:?< A:KK2 2?5 86=2E@X]k^Am

kAm(6 D2>A=65 5F>A=:?8D[ 688 C@==D[ A@C< 3F?D[ 2?5 @E96C 56=:4:@FD 3:E6D 2E @FC 7:CDE DE@A] s:> $F>[ H6 =62C?[ >62?D “E@F49 E96 962CE” 2?5 :E :D 56D:8?65 E@ 36 D92C65 2>@?8 72>:=J 2?5 7C:6?5D] pD H6 ?:33=6[ r=2C< 6IA=2:?D E92E $2? uC2?4:D4@’D r9:?2E@H? 52E6D E@ E96 `gcg v@=5 #FD9 H96? r9:?6D6 :>>:8C2?ED[ =:<6 @E96CD 7C@> 2C@F?5 E96 H@C=5[ 2CC:G65 E@ D66< E96:C 7@CEF?6[ 2?5 r9:?6D6 >6C492?ED D6E FA D9@A :? E9:D 2C62] %96C6 H2D 82>3=:?8[ AC@DE:EFE:@? 2?5 @A:F> 56?D] pD 8@=5 2?5 ;@3D 3642>6 D42C46[ r9:?6D6 :>>:8C2?ED 72465 G:@=6?46 2?5 5:D4C:>:?2E@CJ =2HD[ :?4=F5:?8 E96 r9:?6D6 tI4=FD:@? p4E @7 `gga] %96J AC@E64E65 E96>D6=G6D H:E9 4=@D6\<?:E 72>:=J 2DD@4:2E:@?D 2?5 D@4:6E:6D]k^Am

kAm%96 `h_e 62CE9BF2<6 56DEC@J65 >F49 @7 r9:?2E@H? – J@F 42? DE:== D66 3FC?65 49F?<D @7 3C:4<D DE:4<:?8 @FE @7 3F:=5:?8D 96C6 – 3FE :E H2D C63F:=E[ 56DA:E6 677@CED E@ C6=@42E6 E96 r9:?6D6 4@>>F?:EJ] %@52J[ :E :D ?@E @?=J @?6 @7 E96 4:EJ’D >@DE A@AF=2C E@FC:DE 2C62D 3FE 2=D@ 2 b_\3=@4< C6D:56?E:2= 9F3 3@2DE:?8 >@C6 E92? c_ 2==6JD H96C6 C6D:56?ED 4@?G6CD6 :? r9:?6D6[ D9@A 7@C 96C3D 2?5 G686E23=6D 2?5 E@FC:DED G:6 7@C E96 36DE A=246D E@ 62E[ 8C23 2 q@32 E62 H:E9 E2A:@42 A62C=D[ D9@A 7@C D@FG6?:CD 2?5 D2>A=6 5:776C6?E <:?5D @7 E62[ 2D H6 5:5 2E E96 k2 9C67lQ9EEAi^^HHH]G:E2=E62=627]?6EQm':E2= %62{627k^2m]k^Am

kAmu@C >2?J A6@A=6[ 7@@5 :D 46?EC2= E@ E96:C EC2G6= 6IA6C:6?46] u@C @E96CD[ :E :D 2 E6CC:7:4 H2J E@ E2<6 2 566A6C 5:G6 :?E@ =@42= 4F=EFC6 2?5 9:DE@CJ H96E96C H:E9 2 7@@5 E@FC[ 4@@<:?8 4=2DD @C 6G6? 2 G:D:E E@ 2 =@42= 72C>6C’D >2C<6E =:<6 E96 u6CCJ !=2K2 u2C>6CD |2C<6E 2E E96 k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^HHH]8@@8=6]4@>^8@E@nFC=lrpt$4pwC~Kp'gp7ea554_gI6*wsI)x>e;E<!c%K9vrfJc&ee3p:A{J8AE0)ctJa*fvg&3a+`E8|2D(`%3w0I&bD>|2dt?G>Ag(8F_Eu;}bB?)tK$:;!y3BKE*(x|wz0_sx52td6sbDc+}Cwg@cd!Awq2|8gQmu6CCJ qF:=5:?8k^2m[ 762EFC:?8 >@C6 E92? `__ G6?5@CD @? $2EFC52JD[ @C E96 46?EFCJ\@=5 k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^HHH]A:<6A=246>2C<6E]@C8Qm!:<6 !=246 |2C<6Ek^2m :? $62EE=6[ H9:49 DA2?D ?:?6 24C6D :? E96 46?E6C @7 5@H?E@H? 2?5 :D 72>@FD 7@C 7:D9>@?86CD E@DD:?8 E96:C 7:D9 9:89 :? E96 2:C]k^Am

kAm(96E96C J@F 2C6 @? 2 4CF:D6 @C E@FC:?8 2 ?6H 4:EJ[ 4@>A2?:6D[ :?4=F5:?8 k2 9C67lQ9EEAi^^HHH]E@FCD3J=@42=D]4@>Qm%@FCD 3J {@42=Dk^2mk^Am

kAm2?5 k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^HHH]4@?E6IEEC2G6=]4@>^:?E6C6DED^7@@5\E@FCDQmr@?E6IE %C2G6=[k^2m @776C 2== G2C:6E:6D @7 7@@5\@C:6?E65 E@FCD H96E96C J@F H2?E E@ 9F?E 7@C ECF77=6D :? %FD42?J[ E2<6 2 4@@<:?8 4=2DD :? 2 9@>6 :? #@>6 @C D2>A=6 2== G2C:6E:6D @7 E2A2D :? q2C46=@?2]k^Am

kAm*@F 42? 2=D@ 7:?5 F?:BF6 6IA6C:6?46D H:E9 2 =@42= 4@>A2?J[ 2D H6 5:5 :? uC2?46 H96? H6 DA6?E 2 52J E@FC:?8 G:?6J2C5D :? E96 q62F;@=2:D C68:@? ?62C {J@?[ 4@>A=6E6 H:E9 2? 2>2K:?8 A:4?:4 =F?49 2E 2 46?EFC:6D\@=5 G:?6J2C5 2CC2?865 7@C FD 3J 2 H@?56C7F= {J@?\32D65 4@>A2?J 42==65 k2 9C67lQ9EEAi^^HHH]>JEC2G6=2?86=]7CQm|J %C2G6= p?86=k^2m]k^Am

kAm%96C6 2C6 A=6?EJ @7 7@@5\@C:6?E65 6IA6C:6?46D 2?5 4@@<:?8 4=2DD6D @? 4CF:D6D[ E@@] #686?E $6G6? $62D rCF:D6Di ~776CD E96 rF=:?2CJ pCED z:E496? H9:=6 r2C?:G2= rCF:D6 {:?6 @776CD r2C?:G2= z:E496? @? D6=64E D9:AD 2?5 (:?5DE2C rCF:D6D AC@G:56D |2C<6E %@FCD H96C6 2 D9:A 4967 >2J E2<6 8F6DED 2D9@C6 E@ =@42= >2C<6ED E@ D@FC46 :?8C65:6?ED 7@C 2? 6G6?:?8 >62=] w@==2?5 p>6C:42 762EFC6D 4@>A=:>6?E2CJ 4@@<:?8 56>@?DEC2E:@?D E92E 9:89=:89E C68:@?2= DA64:2=E:6D 2?5 :?E6C24E:G6 k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^HHH]9@==2?52>6C:42]4@>^6?^FD^D9@C6\6I4FCD:@?D^7@@5\2?5\H:?6\E@FCDQmrF=:?2CJ $9@C6 tI4FCD:@?Dk^2m :? G2C:@FD A@CED] #:G6C 4CF:D6D @776C DA64:2= 4F=:?2CJ 2?5 H:?6\@C:6?E65 D2:=:?8D 2D H6 6IA6C:6?465 @? 2? k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^E2<:?8E96<:5D]4@>^42DE=6D\2?5\G:?6J2C5D\2?5\>@C6\@?\2\C9:?6\C:G6C\4CF:D6^Qmp>2(2E6CH2JD 4CF:D6 @? E96 #9:?6k^2m #:G6C]k^Am

kAm(96? H6 H6C6 4CF:D:?8 @? 2 #686?E D9:A[ H6 G:D:E65 2 72C> :? $A2:? H96C6 H6 =62C?65 E96 AC@A6C H2J E@ k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^E2<:?8E96<:5D]4@>^5@\?@E\FD6\D627@@5\@C\D6CG6\A26==2\H:E9\2\7@C<^QmAC6A2C6 2?5 62E !26==2k^2m W?@ 7@C<D 2?5 ?@ D627@@5X] ~? E96 :D=2?5 @7 |J<@?@D :? vC6646 @? 2 r6=63C:EJ 4CF:D6[ H6 k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^E2<:?8E96<:5D]4@>^2A6I\52J\a\2\H@>2?\7@==@H:?8\96C\5C62>D^QmH6C6 EC62E65 E@ 2 4@@<:?8 4=2DDk^2m 2E E96 9@>6 @7 %6E2 uC28652<:[ H9@ 7C66=J 25>:EE65 96C 9FD32?5 E9@F89E D96 H2D ?FED H96? D96 H2?E65 E@ DE2CE 2 4@@<:?8 D49@@= 7@C E@FC:DED] %96 3FD:?6DD :D 9:89=J DF446DD7F=]k^Am

kAm%96D6 52JD[ E92?<D E@ A=2E7@C>D =:<6 k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^HHH]62EH:E9]4@>^=^56DE:?2E:@?D^5:?:?8\6IA6C:6?46DQmt2E (:E9k^2m 2?5 k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^HHH]==H@C=5E@FC]4@>^62E\H:E9\=@42=D\>62=\D92C:?8^Qm|62=$92C:?8k^2m J@F 42? 2CC2?86 E@ D92C6 2 >62= H:E9 =@42=D :? E96:C 9@>6D] $@>6E:>6D[ E96D6 42? 36 9@DE65 3J =@42= 4967D 6IA6C:>6?E:?8 H:E9 ?6H 5:D96D]k^Am

kAm!6C92AD J@F H2?E E@ =62C? 2 =:EE=6 9:DE@CJ 2E 2 DA64:2= C6DE2FC2?E H96C6 J@F 2C6 G:D:E:?8[ 2D H6 5:5 :? $2? uC2?4:D4@ 2E $2? uC2?4:D4@ u2:C>@?E’D k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^HHH]72:C>@?E\D2?\7C2?4:D4@]4@>^5:?6^E@?82\C@@>\9FCC:42?6\32C^Qm%@?82 #@@> U2>Aj wFCC:42?6 q2Ck^2m[ 2? :4@? @7 E:<: 32CD 2?5 4F=EFC6 H:E9 <:ED49J 4@4<E2:=D 2?5 >@4<E2:=D[ pD:2? 5:D96D 2?5 :? E96 >:55=6[ 2 A@@= 564< H96C6 2 32?5 D6C6?256D 5:?6CD H:E9 4=2DD:4D 7C@> E96:C 3@2E 2D :E “D2:=D” FA 2?5 5@H? E96 H2E6C 4@>A=6E6 H:E9 E9F?56CDE@C>D 2?5 7=2D9:?8 =:89ED] %96 C6DE2FC2?E :D 2D A@AF=2C H:E9 =@42=D 46=63C2E:?8 2 DA64:2= @442D:@? 2D H:E9 G:D:E@CD H9@ C6G6= :? E96 6IA6C:6?46 @7 5:?:?8 F?56C E92E4965 C@@7D]k^Am

kAmq@? 2AA6E:EPk^Am

kA 4=2DDlQD9:CEE2:=QmWu@C >@C6 %2<:?8 E96 z:5D[ G:D:E k2 9C67lQ9EEAi^^HHH]E2<:?8E96<:5D]4@>QmHHH]E2<:?8E96<:5D]4@>k^2m 2?5 2=D@ 7@==@H %2<:?8%96z:5D @? k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^HHH]EH:EE6C]4@>^E2<:?8E96<:5DQm%H:EE6Ck^2m[ k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^72463@@<]4@>^E2<:?8E96<:5DQmu2463@@<k^2m 2?5 k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^HHH]:?DE28C2>]4@>^E2<:?8E96<:5D^Qmx?DE28C2>k^2m H96C6 t:=66? ~8:?EK H6=4@>6D J@FC BF6DE:@?D 2?5 4@>>6?ED] %96 7@FCE9 65:E:@? @7 %96 z:5’D vF:56 E@ }6H *@C< r:EJ 2?5 E96 E9:C5 65:E:@? @7 %96 z:5’D vF:56 E@ (2D9:?8E@? s]r] 2C6 E96 =2E6DE :? 2 D6C:6D @7 k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^E2<:?8E96<:5D]4@>^E96\<:5D\8F:56D\<:5D\96=A\<:5D\5:D4@G6C^Qm`c 3@@<Dk^2m 7@C <:5 EC2G6=6CD AF3=:D965 3J t:=66?]Xk^Am

kAmk6>m©a_ae t:=66? ~8:?EK] s:DEC:3FE65 3J %C:3F?6 r@?E6?E p86?4J[ {{r]k^6>mk^Am